Nakhon
Pathom, only 56 kilometers west of Bangkok, is a city dating back to
at least 150 B.C., say the historians.. a city rich with meaning to
all Buddhists as it was here Buddhism was first introduced to the
country now known as Thailand. Nakhon
Pathom occupies an area of 2,168 square kilometers and
administratively divided into six Amphoes and one King Amphoe: Muang
Bangk Lean, Don Tum, Kamphaeng Saen, Nakhon Chaisi, Sam Phran and
King Amphoe Phutthamonthon.
Phra
Pathom Chedi
On coming toward the city, the first glimpse of towering Phra
Pathom Chedi is overpowering. It is one of the largest Chedis in
the world and in Thailand, by far the most holy of all Buddhist
structures. Reaching to sky for just half an inch less than 380
feet, the dome shines like pure gold in the sunlight. The highly
glazed tiles covering the dome are golden brown in color and
were brought from China.
At the four points of the compass in
the outer courtyard are four Viharas (halls) containing image of Buddha in
various postures. The Eastern Vihara shows the image of Buddha beneath a
delicately painted. Pho tree which covers the entire wall behind the image
and is very unusual. The inter room is a Royal Chapel containing an altar
where the King pays homage. The Southern Vihara shows the image of Buddha
protected by a serpent. The Western Vihara contains image of Buddha in a
reclining position, just before his death, surrounded by disciples, and an
inner room contains yet another reclining image. The Northern vihara,
directly in front of the entrance and across from the frame building where
the guides are located, contains a standing image of Buddha. The ashes of
King Vajiravudh are buried at the base of this image.
The Chedi, from the
base, is a breath-taking sight. The first original structure,
on this same site and now inside the Chedi, was built. It is
believed by indianized Mon people and resembled the indian
Stupa of the third century era of King Asoke. During his
reign, the first Buddhist Saints were sent to spread
Buddhism in the Kingdom of Suwannaphum,
The
first capital of that Kingkom being located on the site of
present-day Nakhon Pathom, Later, when the area cam under
Khmer control, the Stupa was repaired and over-built with a
Brahmin Prang, 130 feet high. During the regn of King
Mongkut (Rama IV) in the middle 1800's, it was again over
built in its present chedi-style structure. A replica of the
original Stupa stands south of the present Chedi.
The
Museum, nowadays at Rondharm, contains a wealth of priceless
relics. Many of the stone carvings and other articles are
thousands of years old and much of it was found in and
around Nakhon Pathom or the jungle nearby.
While still a
Buddhist monk, King Mongkut had made a pilgrimage to Nakhon Pathom to
visit the old ruined Prang. When he came upon the old structure he was
deeply impressed with the realization that this was the spot where
Buddhism was first taught in Thailand. He thought undoubtedly there must
be a Buddha's relic inside and he decided to have the Prang rebuilt.
When he become King, he immediately ordered reparation commenced and the
work started in 1853. He passed away before his dream of restoration
came true but kings following him carried on the program.
An outer
pavilion completely encircles a building, also circular, with
the Chedi itself in the center. On the outside edge of the
pavilion are mounds on which are growing the important trees
connected with the life of the Buddha. On the inner side are
small belfries spaced at intervals from which sweet-toned bells
ring out from time. Stone images stand at attention before red
lacquer moon-gate doors leading into the gallery. Other stones
figures are carved to represent animals and some are the very
old "Wheels of the Law" which were religious emblems prior to
143 B.C. when the images of Buddha were first carved. The Wheels
were found in the immediate area during excavations and prove,
without a doubt, the age of the city. More
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