Bangkok Beefsteak & Burgundy
Newsletter 2008-4
Le Beaulieu – October 7th 2008
A total of 20 (14 members plus 6 guests) assembled in the chic dining room of Le Beaulieu, one of Bangkok’s finest French restaurants. Hervé and his mâitre d’ were on hand to welcome the party and our presence caused the restaurant patrons to overflow into the bar area, a sure sign in these economically troubled times of somewhere offering exceptional quality. As a result of the tasting expedition that had left three members of the committee reeling in Soi 19,
we knew something good lay ahead and we were not
disappointed.

Amuse-Bouche
*****
Plancha of Fresh Hokkaido Scallops, Duxelle of champignons & chervil-rocket Sabayon
*****
Roasted Quercy Lamb Rack,
Sautéed ratte potatoes & needle bean, Lamb jus
*****
Grand-Marnier Soufflé,
Blood orange sorbet
*****
Assorted French Cheese Platter
Rocket salad & condiments
*****
Illy Coffee or Selection of Tea
Beaulieu’s chocolate

The aperitif was a Swiss rosé, Oeil-de-Perdrix, that one could have drunk all day and, we were told, that is exactly what happens on a summer’s day in Switzerland. The amuse bouche (“amusing bush” as John Miller, food spokesperson, pronounced it) was river prawns cooked exactly as one would have wished in a delicate sauce of cream and lentil seeds, served at the table.

There followed the scallops, on sizzling hot plates, nestling on a bed of mushrooms in a sea of yellow sauce. Very, very tasty, with the only hint of criticism being that some servings had sat a little too long under the lamp in the kitchen. These were enjoyed along with a French riesling, Vignoble de Bennwihr 2005, which earned praise from wine spokesperson, Rodney Ruth, who, like John Miller, had been made to sing for his supper. Conversation and wine flowed in equal (large) measures and palates were prepared for the crowning glory of the meal by the imbibing of Fox Creek JSM 2001, a wise investment made earlier in the year by Winemaster Peter. It arrived, it being roasted Quercy lamb rack; one cannot say enough in praise of this dish. The portions were generous, the meat juicy, flavoursome and cooked on the rare side as the writer would have chosen, with the chops accompanied by an excellent Lamb jus and well-chosen veggies.

As if the lamb had not been an adequate demonstration of Hervé’s culinary skills, 20 Grand Marnier soufflés plus scoops of home-made ice cream then appeared, each soufflé having risen perfectly above the lip of its ramekin. Peter had chosen De Bortoli Noble One 2003 to accompany this which, as the name implies, is the end-result of the noble rot process. However, ‘twas not from Italy but from sunny Australia where the 3rd generation of the De Bortoli family regularly claim the prize for the best dessert wine of the year.

Finally, we were set loose upon a cheese platter large enough to satisfy not 20 but possibly 40 cheese gourmands. Once again, Hervé and his team had proved more than equal to the task of feeding the B&B gluttons! The cheese was accompanied by Ardeche (Cabernet/ Grenache/ Merlot) which was a great match for the cheese. Many thanks to Le Beaulieu for a fine lunch where no-one rose to leave before 4:00pm

A gourmand is a person who takes great pleasure in food. The word has different connotations from the similar word gourmet, which emphasizes an individual with a highly refined discerning palette, but in practice the two terms are closely linked, as both imply the enjoyment of good food. An older usage of the word is to describe a person given to excess in the consumption of food and drink, synonymous with "glutton". In this latter usage, there is a parallel concern among the French that their word for the appreciation of gourmet cuisine (gourmandise) is historically included in the French Catholic list of the Seven Deadly Sins. With the evolution in the meaning of gourmand (and gourmandise) away from gluttony, towards the appreciation of good food, French culinary proponents are advocating that the Catholic Church update the infamous list to refer to "gloutonnerie" rather than "gourmandise". Bangkok